Cabinet Designer suite Bespoke Woodcraft Studio · Salice · V3

Salice Hinge Drill-Position Calculator

Pick your door, your hinge family, and your mounting plate — the tool walks you through every decision Salice asks of you, recommends the exact hinge and plate to buy, and draws where to drill. Replaces the 76-page catalog with one page.

Live — Jump to result ↓

1 · Your door

Work from the carcass (box) size or straight from a known door size — either way the tool fills in the reveal, the overlay, the plate height, and where to drill.

Carcass-first derives the door; door-first works back to the carcass.
Door sits on and covers the cabinet side panel (crank A).
Hinges on the left edge — door swings sideways. Cups run down the door height.
Outside dimensions of the cabinet box.
The finished size of the door you have (or are cutting).
Pick the gaps you want around the door; the tool derives the carcass.
Interior clear opening of the cabinet (carcass minus the two side panels).
The divider the two doors share and hinge onto.
Carcass material — the cabinet side the plate screws onto.
Door material thickness.
Front-to-back depth of the side panel. Shapes the carcass drawing so it reads as a real panel — it does not change any drill position.

2 · Use case

How will this door be used? This filters out hinges that won't suit it.

An everyday kitchen or closet door, standard 110° opening.
Why does this matter?

Salice makes one hinge family for everyday cabinet doors (Series 200), one for soft-close (Silentia+), one for thick or profiled doors, and a "Universal" hinge that works on glass and 8 mm panels — even push-to-open. This filter picks the right family for what you're building, so you don't have to read the catalog.

3 · Choose your hinge

Salice makes six families. The cards below are the ones that match your door and use case — pick one.

Each card shows angles, door-thickness range, action, and finishes available.
Most common, most forgiving if you mis-drill.
Why does this matter?

The cup is the round metal piece that sits in the door. Four ways to lock it down:

  • Wood screw (P) — two pilot holes, two screws. Most forgiving.
  • Press-in Ø8 dowel (R) — drill two Ø8 mm holes, dowels press home. No screws on the door face.
  • Rapido (7) — a press-in cam clamps to the Ø8 holes. No tools.
  • Logica (J) — a tool-less lever on the hinge. Drop the hinge in, click the lever, it locks.

All four use the same 45 mm pitch / 9.5 mm offset / Ø8 mm drilling — you can change your mind later without re-drilling.

Top & bottom cup from the end.
Optional. Sets the end cups to the jig's locator-pin distance so the top & bottom hinges land right on the pins — no measuring. The plate marks move with them. Off by default.
The ENJOYWOOD pins sit 68 mm from the end edge.
Critical — shelves & hinge collisions
If a fixed shelf sits where a hinge plate lands, you'll find out only after you've drilled — and you'll be remaking the door. Tell the tool where any shelves are and it keeps the middle hinges clear of them (the top & bottom hinges anchor the door and stay put). If you skip this, the marks below assume there are NO shelves in the way — and you have to confirm that.

4 · Choose your mounting plate

Two decisions: how the plate looks, and how it attaches to the cabinet.

Snap-on — fastest install, depth cam for fine-tuning.
Standard chipboard / wood screw.
Why does this matter?

The aesthetic is purely visual — cruciform is the everyday T-shape; long-narrow plates put the screws under the hinge arm so you can't see them from inside the cabinet. Both drill 32 mm apart vertically (the "32 mm system"); they differ in how far from the front edge the screws sit (37 mm vs 21 mm).

The mount style changes how you attach the plate to the hinge — clip-on snaps together with one click, screw-on uses a screw. Clip-on plates also have a depth cam that lets you trim the door in/out by ~3 mm without re-drilling.

The plate fixing is how the plate attaches to the cabinet. Wood screw and Euro screw are most common. Knock-in dowels (Ø10 mm) hold faster on a production line.

5 · Plate height — your reveal lever

The taller the plate, the smaller the overlay. The tool picks the right height to land the reveal you asked for in §1.

Manual override re-computes the actual reveal you'll see.
Why does this matter?

Salice plates come in a ladder of standoff heights: 0, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18 mm. Adding 1 mm of plate height subtracts 1 mm of overlay — so the plate height is the lever the engine pulls to land your target reveal. After drilling, the hinge's side-screw trims by ±1.5 / +4.5 mm so small errors are recoverable.

6 · Hardware & advanced
Auto — Salice's standard 4 mm. Leave it alone; the plate height does the work.
Euro-screw plates ship with the screw pre-fitted (die-cast body). Auto picks /16 single-side or /20 for a shared/centre panel. Choose “None” for the bare steel plate you screw yourself.
Your result

✓ What to buy

The numbers — what to set & what you get

Where to drill

Door — front face

Where each 35 mm cup is bored. The hinge edge is highlighted; H1, H2… run along it.

Carcass — flat panel (before assembly)

Drilling the side panel flat, before the box is built: measure from the panel's top & bottom ENDS. P1, P2… line up with the cups.

Carcass — inside the box (after assembly)

Drilling once the box is built: measure from INSIDE — down from the inside top and up from the inside bottom (the faces of the top/bottom panels).

Cross-section — door meets cabinet

Top-down: how the door overlaps the side panel, with the cup and plate in place.

Cup boring detail

One hinge, fully dimensioned — exactly what your bit does at each position.

Ø35 cup bore Cup fixing hole / plate screw Dimension to drill mark Shelf — keep plates clear

Hinge positions

How to read these numbers. The cup (on the door) and the plate (on the carcass) end up at the same height — a European hinge has no vertical offset, so the height cam is only a ±2 mm tweak. Cup distances are from the door's edge. Plate distances are given two ways — use whichever you're measuring from: from the panel end (flat, before you build the box) or from the inside face (the assembled box). They differ by exactly one panel thickness. From an inside face, the plate mark = the cup distance − how far the door laps past that face. The catch: the lap at the top and the lap at the bottom are usually different numbers — each one is the panel thickness − that side's reveal, and the top reveal rarely matches the bottom. So never reuse the bottom mark's lap when you mark the top. The readout below gives you both for your door.
Flip to whichever end is easier to reach. The nearer-end distance also shows in grey, so you never have to flip to pick it.
Flat: measured from the side panel's end edge. Assembled: from the underside of the top stretcher/panel (one material-thickness lower).
Where the inside top/bottom faces sit, below the panel's end edge. Drives the “inside the box (after assembly)” diagram and the assembled column of the table below.

Set up your hinge jig (Ø35 cup boring)

Boring the door cups with a clamp-on 35 mm hinge jig (e.g. ENJOYWOOD "Quick Clip")? Here's the dial-in for the hinge you've chosen.