Salice Hinge Drill-Position Calculator

Salice makes one hinge family for everyday cabinet doors (Series 200), one for soft-close (Silentia+), one for thick or profiled doors, and a "Universal" hinge that works on glass and 8 mm panels — even push-to-open. This filter picks the right family for what you're building, so you don't have to read the catalog.

The cup is the round metal piece that sits in the door. Four ways to lock it down:

• Wood screw (P) — two pilot holes, two screws. Most forgiving.
• Press-in Ø8 dowel (R) — drill two Ø8 mm holes, dowels press home. No screws on the door face.
• Rapido (7) — a press-in cam clamps to the Ø8 holes. No tools.
• Logica (J) — a tool-less lever on the hinge. Drop the hinge in, click the lever, it locks.

All four use the same 45 mm pitch / 9.5 mm offset / Ø8 mm drilling — you can change your mind later without re-drilling.

The aesthetic is purely visual — cruciform is the everyday T-shape; long-narrow plates put the screws under the hinge arm so you can't see them from inside the cabinet. Both drill 32 mm apart vertically (the "32 mm system"); they differ in how far from the front edge the screws sit (37 mm vs 21 mm).

The mount style changes how you attach the plate to the hinge — clip-on snaps together with one click, screw-on uses a screw. Clip-on plates also have a depth cam that lets you trim the door in/out by ~3 mm without re-drilling.

The plate fixing is how the plate attaches to the cabinet. Wood screw and Euro screw are most common. Knock-in dowels (Ø10 mm) hold faster on a production line.

Salice plates come in a ladder of standoff heights: 0, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18 mm. Adding 1 mm of plate height subtracts 1 mm of overlay — so the plate height is the lever the engine pulls to land your target reveal. After drilling, the hinge's side-screw trims by ±1.5 / +4.5 mm so small errors are recoverable.